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Travel: Stockholm's Archipelago

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Wednesday 19 August 2015

Travel: Stockholm's Archipelago

Airbnb house and terrace in Swedish countryside near Stockholm
View of harbour from Airbnb terrace in Sweden near Stockholm
Inside Airbnb Swedish cabin ear Stockholm
Me in retro Nike t-shirt and suede button down skirt with view from Airbnb Swedish cabin
I had been wanting to go to Sweden, and more specifically to Stockholm, for ages but living in Paris, the thought of staying in central Stockholm for a whole week just felt a bit much. So, we looked on trusty AIRBNB and found this absolute gem of a place just 20 minutes drive from central Stockholm. It was right in the countryside with views over an enchanting nearby harbour and natural park. It was the perfect place to have a base for both city seeing and visiting the region's archipelago, which is made up of around 30,000 islands!

Ça fait longtemps que je veux visiter la Suède, et Stockholm plus précisément, mais vu qu'on habite à Paris, on ne voulait pas rester pour une semaine en centre ville de Stockholm. Donc, on a regardé sur notre site préféré AIRBNB et on a trouvé cette cabane géniale à juste 20 minutes en voiture de Stockholm. Elle se situe en plein campagne avec des vues charmantes d'un port et d'un parc de nature. C'était parfait pour découvrir la ville et la région, y compris l'archipel qui est fait d'environ 30.000 iles!

Ferry ride to Utö Stockholm archipelago
Lewis on ferry ride to Utö Stockholm archipelago
On the Sunday of our trip, we drove down to Årsta Havsbad to catch a ferry to the island described as the star of the southern archipelago, Utö. Make sure you CHECK FERRY TIMES in advance of any island hopping because we didn't and ended up waiting for about 45 minutes for a ferry (so unorganised, I know). It cost 150kr for a return and took about an hour each way. Now that's the boring but useful organisational details out of the way - which are sometimes hard to find on t'internet - let's get onto the good stuff. 

Le dimanche, on a conduit à Årsta Havsbad pour prendre le ferry à Utö - l'ile qu'on décrit comme l'étoile de l'archipel du sud. Je te conseille de REGARDER DES HORAIRES DE FERRYS en avance parce qu'on n'avait pas fait et alors on a attendu 45 minutes pour un ferry (pas très organisé, j'avoue). Le ferry coût 150kr l'aller-retour et il prend environ une heure. Bon, je t'ai dit des détails ennuyeux mais importants - souvent difficile à trouver sur Internet - maintenant je te parle des choses intéressantes. 
Swedish cabins on Utö island in Stockholm archipelago
Me walking through forest in Utö Stockholm archipelago, Kanken backpack
The ferry ride was a dream - amazing scenery and just so refreshing to feel the sea breeze  - this is the kind of thing I have no come to appreciate living in a, yes beautiful but also, very polluted capital city. We were actually aiming to get off the ferry at Gruvbryggan (well, we thought this was the only stop) but we accidentally got off at Spränga. I slightly panicked when we realised this just as the ferry was pulling away but it was actually a god send. Spränga was just a half an hour walk to our original destination through some lovely unspoilt forests and views of our much-loved Swedish cabins. So I highly recommend that you accidentally-now-on-purpose take the ferry to Spränga and walk to Gruvbryggan!

Le ferry était super - des belles vues et très frais avec la brise de mer. On a voulu descendre à Gruvbryggan (on a pensé qu'il n'y avait qu'un arrêt) mais par hasard, on est descendu à Spränga. J'ai paniqué un peu mais en fait c'était mieux! Spränga est à 30 minutes de Gruvbryggan au pieds par des bons forets magnifiques. Du coup, je te conseille de par-hasard-mais-pas-par-hasard de descendre le ferry à Spränga et marcher à Gruvbryggan! 
Gruvbryggan town on Utö island Stockholm archipelago, Utö Bageri
Me on beach near Gruvbryggan, Utö Stockholm archipelago
Forest and beach near Gruvbryggan town on Utö island Stockholm archipelago
In Gruvbryggan we bought some rolls and Swedish sweet buns from the much hyped Utö Bageri bakery and enjoyed them sitting on the nearby beach. The vanilla sweet bun was absolutely delicious - as you can see, I was enjoying them so much that I forgot to snap them! After chilling on the beach for a while, we went for an early evening kayak which was amazing! When we were kayaking back into the harbour I jumped in for a little swim. It was really cold but very liberating - swimming in Swedish waters is a must! It was the perfect little day trip out into the nature.

À Gruvbryggan on a acheté des petits pains salés et sucrés à Utö Bageri - une boulangerie avec plein de hype - et on les a mangé sur la plage. Le petit pain à la vanille est délicieux et comme tu peux voir, je les ai aimés trop que j'ai oublié de les prendre en photo! Après qu'on s'est détendu sur la plage, on a fait du kayak qui était super! En rentrant au port, j'ai sauté dans l'eau pour me baigner. C'était froid mais très libérateur - il faut se baigner dans l'eau suédois! C'était un petit voyage parfait dans la nature.
Boats in Vaxholm harbour Stockholm archipelago
Houses in Vaxholm Stockholm archipelago
Shops in Vaxholm centre capital of Stockholm archipelago
Our final visit to Stockholm's archipelago was to its capital, Vaxholm. It's a pretty little harbour side town but it is quite touristy. We had a wander around for a hour or so and then had lunch with a view of the boats - rolls and sweets buns again of course! I am glad that we visited Vaxholm but I think I would've preferred going somewhere else a bit more remote like Utö - I guess it depends what you're into!

Pour notre dernière visite à l'archipel de Stockholm, on est allé à sa capitale, Vaxholm. C'est un village joli avec un port mais il y a pas mal de touristes. On s'est baladé un peu et puis on a déjeuné avec un vue des bateaux - des petits pains encore, bien-sûr! Je suis contente qu'on y est allé mais je pense que j'aurais préféré d'aller quelque part plus isolé comme Utö - ça dépend ce que tu aimes!


Check out my other Stockholm travel posts - Stockholm photo diary and Stockholm mini food guide. 


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